Sand Flies, Sun Burn and a Walk Through Paradise

I woke up early at the Bridge Street Hostel to the sound of Two Maori fellows having a loud and heated discussion in the next room. They were speaking in their native dialect and I found myself entranced by the rhythm of their voices and the intensity of their discourse. After trying unsuccessfully, to avoid placing my bare feet on to the stained and filthy carpet I showered, drank some black coffee and downed a hard and tasteless energy bar.

I made it to the bus stop five minutes before departure time and once again, was the only American and middle aged fellow on the bus. The rest were an eclectic group of young people from various countries heading off for a day of adventure. In my mind they were light weights. Most were doing a one day trip, where they take the water taxi from Kaiteriteri and go to Anchorage or Bark Bay for the day, returning later after having leisurely strolled the golden beaches of the Abel Tasman. I however, was determined to complete the 54.4 kilometer great walk from Marahau to Wainui and then would double back from Wainui to the pick up point at Totaranui. This would make the actual distance traveled around 67 kilometers.

After arriving at the drop off point a voice from the back of the bus said "are we at Kaiteriteri yet?" Apparently all of his friends had gotten off the bus and had left this twenty something Columbian kid sleeping on the bus. The only way he could get back was to walk the almost 12 Km to Anchorage where he could eventually pick up a water taxi. So the day started with a young Columbian Fillipe, a Canadian girl, two Israeli girls who had just finished their two year stint in the army and a middle aged American fella with sore knees. As the young Columbian lad was quite dejected about his ordeal I walked with him to Anchorage. We had an interesting conversation along the way and I learned much about his life and his views on everything from his love of family, his thoughts on religion and his perspective on the murder of the Columbian world cup soccer star. He currently resided in Canada and like so many young people today, he was seeing the world.

Over the next Three and a half days I hiked through some of the most beautiful coastal scenery that I have ever encountered. I have walked along coastlines in other places in the world but never have I seen the vivid and vibrant colors of the Abel Tasman landscape. The deep royal blue fringed by the shallower turquoise waters combined with sand that was truly the color of gold, was surreal and breath taking. As I photographed it continually, I realized that there is no camera that can really portray the beauty of what I was really seeing. I wish that everyone could see it the way my eyes were seeing it. Full vivid color in an endless landscape of blue sea and golden sand shrouded by green mountains and granite rock formations.

After leaving any specific bay you would often climb steeply in to the forest canopy filled with ferns, palms and a variety of lush green plant life that I have never before experienced. All the while I could hear bird calls that were completely foreign sounds and that heightened the awareness that I was in a distant and primal place, completely unspoiled and void of any impact form the modern world. Near the end of each days hike, you would come down from the mountain trails and would begin to see the familiar vibrant hues of blue and gold through the green canopy of the forest. Gradually you would descend on to another beautiful bay where you would set up your tent and marvel at the panoramic views and the fact that you just walked miles through some of the most stunning landscapes that you have ever transversed.

In a minor note, the sand flies were tough, the minor sun burn irritating and the sore muscles were ever present. Having a meal of freeze dried lamb with freeze dried potatoes and a nice drink of chemically treated water overlooking the Tasman sea......priceless.